I’ve been a factory-certified Glock armorer since 1997. Even if you buy the best car in the world, eventually it will break down. A gun is a mechanical device and it can fail at any time. No manufacturer is immune from this reality: If you shoot the gun enough, it will break. I’ve broken almost every Glock I’ve ever owned. A Glock 26 or a Glock 19 in 9mm are constant companions in my off-duty hours. I carry a Glock pistol during about 95% of my waking hours. OK…let me get this out of the way right off the bat. A rear frame rail broke off soon after the class. Some of these guys keep a separate recoil spring for each style of ammo they shoot.Running my Glock 21 hard at one of Henk Iverson’s classes. I know gents that will go to the range with a bunch of different weight springs and a pair of wire cutters, and they will tune the recoil spring precisely to their loads. Therefore, if you start shooting reduced power loads, the slide may come back far enough to eject the shell casing, but not far enough to catch the slide stop. This is how the 1911 is prevented from beating itself to pieces as the front of the rails crash into the slide. It is supposed to be strong enough to absorb 99% of the recoil produced by firing the gun.
One thing that should be mentioned is that the recoil spring on your 1911 is a buffer of sorts. If this fixes the problem, then praise the Lord and pass the ammo, but if not, buy a Wolff spring kit (you want an 18lb recoil spring if you shoot standard 230gr hardball) and a new slide stop. If these things seem sharp and functional, then buy new springs for your mags (this should be a regular thing that you do bi-annually whether they need it or not and the first thing you do when you buy a used 1911). Look for worn edges on the slide stop and the shelf on the slide it contacts. Go through the pistol and clean it thoroughly. If going aftermarket I'd recommend Wilson BP.I agree with this. If after inspection a slide stop is required, check Brownells or the Colt Custom shop for a Colt nickel SS. For this part there is no substitute, Colt factory is the Gold Standard. If going aftermarket I'd recommend Wilson BP.Īnother item to check is the plunger tube and plunger tube spring w/detents. I used to change officer springs at the 500 rd mark or perceptule weakening but have since switched over to flat wire springs.Īnother item to check is the plunger tube and plunger tube spring w/detents. 1911s with shorter barrels wear out recoil springs faster so replace accordingly. Wilson 8 rd i change annually reguardless. I change mag springs annually during high use (but i use Wilson 47D's). Recoil spring on G moels 16lb should be replaced at 1.5K intervals. Buffs can be used reliably on the Government models for range use, but when installed on the smaller barrels 4.25 & < it restricts the the slide window by not allowing the slide to go fully to the rear. As stated, check for factory Colt recoil parts and remove any shock buffs. Sounds as a candidate for a new recoil spring and mag springs. It would be nice to have one that matches perfectly, but better to have one that works 100% and doesn't quite match than to have one that matches and doesn't work reliably.Īs country gent stated. Regarding your Commander, it seems the biggest problem will be finding a slide stop that matches the factory nickel plating. With the slide stop out of an old Chas Daly, the Commander works fine. Having swapped magazines around to insure that it is not a magazine problem, the slide stop is all that is left. This is an older pistol and I sure hate to mess with it because otherwise function is great and is so accurate. So the difficulty is with the slide stop. After the last round the slide will not remain back.
STAR PISTOL SLIDE WILL STAY OPEN AFTER LAST SHOT PLUS
Have fired heavy and light plus factory and all produce the same results. Problem with my Colt Commander is with a magazine in the pistol, the slide stop will not work.